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Archive for October, 2013

Red Sox Win the World Series & Wine of Halloween (or the Week): 2010 Graci Etna Rosso, Sicily

On this Halloween Thursday, yours truly is thinking of drinking red.

No, we’re not vampires at Trev’s Bistro drinking blood (or are we?…) as dusk turns to dark. There is no better time to consider the excellent red wine being produced in Sicily. When you’re in the San Francisco Bay Area, there is no better place to sample these Sicilian wines (or for that matter, any Italians), than amidst the excellent burrata with sea salt and olive oil, maccaronara with ragu Napoletana, and Shelly Lindgren’s magnificent almost entirely Italian wine list at  the now decade-old A16 in San Francisco’s Marina district.

San Francisco's A16

San Francisco’s A16

It’s the type of wine list that makes you forget about your date for 15 minutes as you’re immersed in the fascinating world of varietals and regions you’ve never heard of. I’m sorry, did you say something?

Yet all will be well because the excellent service staff provides exactly the nurturing insight to help you find that perfect decision. They could even make calculus seem simple. Don’t be surprised if after perusing the list for 15 minutes, you receive a 15 minute story about the wine you should choose.

That was the case when I was pointed towards the 2010 Etna Rosso from Alberto Graci. (more…)


The World Series: Food Edition. Boston vs St. Louis, Ted Drewes vs Toscanini’s

Here we go, it’s late October again, which can only mean three major subjects at Trev’s Bistro: Pumpkin everything, Halloween candy, and the World Series: Food Edition.

Last year San Francisco defeated Detroit handily for food & drink. Then the Giants followed suit with a baseball sweep. However for the Super Bowl in early February, the 49ers lost to the Ravens despite San Francisco defeating Baltimore at the table and the bar.

The Gateway Arch, St. Louis, MONow for the 2013 World Series we have two very fine and if I may say, underrated, food and drink scenes in St. Louis and Boston. In both towns the food and drink take back seats to their beloved Cardinals and Red Sox during the season. But there’s no doubt this match-up of food and drink will be as close as the two excellent teams on the field.

This championship is based on my experience and knowledge with both cities. It is not perfect. Both scenes have WAY more exciting options than what is listed. Please feel free to create your own lineups. Yes, I have much more experience with Boston’s dining scene and am a longtime Red Sox fan, but this is a completely unbiased showdown. Good food and drink doesn’t relate to baseball team bias, at least for me.

Since this is baseball, we’ll craft a starting lineup of nine “players,” a starting pitcher, a set-up man out of the bullpen, a closer, a manager, a broadcaster, and a mascot for our “teams.”

The mayors of the two cities elected not to bet each other this time around, but other city officials did. If the Red Sox win, St. Louis would send a six-pack of Schafly beer, toasted ravioli from Ricardo’s, and a smokehouse specialty from The Shaved duck. If the Cardinals win, Boston would send Harpoon’s Oktoberfest beer, shepherd’s pie from Amrheins, and clam chowder from Legal Sea Foods.

Fenway Park

Fenway Park

That’s a nice little wager. Bonus points for both cities going the microbrewery route (we’re not talking about you, Samuel Adams). However, it’s time for the big leagues. Let’s play ball Boston and St. Louis. (more…)


Restaurants: Ramon Freixa, Madrid

Usually, two dozen or more course tasting menu marathons actually involve that many courses in succession, one after another, until you start imagining your fork to be swirling lemon macarons.

The restaurant Ramon Freixa in Madrid’s ritzy Hotel Unico in the elegant Salamanca shopping and residential neighborhood, in theory, provides you that many miniature bites while experiencing the tasting menu. You’ll have roughly the same number of tastes as at any of the world’s great tasting menu temples that Vanity Fair‘s Corby Kummer earlier this year deemed “totalitarian.” Ramon FreixaExcept, each “course” at Ramon Freixa has close to four components that aren’t merely “tastes.” The entertaining English translations breaks down the tasting menu into “The Beginning” (essentially four amuse-bouches), “The Origins” (crisp wafers covered covered and “salchichón” salami, along with a fried sardine dish), “The Previous” (four more small bites at one time), then the “Courses” (4 sets of courses with 3-4 creations within each course), “Sweet Wait” (a Black Forest themed chocolate mousse and cherry number), “Dessert” (again, one course with four different plates), and then your finishing chocolate bites. This makes football game plans seem elementary.

Looking back at the sheer amount of food set before me over the course of three and a half hours this past summer, it’s startling that I felt merely content afterwards. Perhaps that’s what Madrid’s 95 degree July weather does to you. It’s good for sweating all that jamon Iberico off.

"Crac- oil- thyme" and stuffed olives with Vermouth

“Crac- oil- thyme” and stuffed olives with Vermouth

It’s a different tasting menu method than I’m used to. For better or worse organization-wise, and I’d say more for the worse since you’re more likely to let something get cold, Freixa’s kitchen yielded a tomato- centric concept and a goat dish that might hold off stiff competition at the end of December for 2013’s dish of the year. Then again, I’d have to choose between the two. That won’t be trivial. (more…)


Plat du Jour Monday October 7, 2013: When Is It O.K. To Send Something Back?

What a challenging question to begin this first full week of October with. Usually my answer is the always vague “follow your gut feeling.” Well, if you’re gut isn’t feeling so good, you probably want to send the dish back.

I’ve noticed I almost never have to send back food. Cocktails get returned at a far higher rate. Then at a seemingly innocent, low key lunch at the highly respectable Los Angeles restaurant/cafe LAMILL (also a terrific coffee roaster, located in the city’s Silver Lake area), I was forced to do something about this joke of a sandwich delivered to me. Something had to happen. Sandwiches don’t look like this for $7, let alone double the price from a kitchen owned by one of the city’s top toques. Just look at the sandwich “filling” to the left in the picture below. Nothing has been edited. Seriously.

Note the difference between Sandwich A and Sandwich B at LA Mill

Note the difference between Sandwich A and Sandwich B at LAMILL

(more…)