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Wine of the Week: Les Larmes de Divona Bourgogne Rouge, 2008

The color of this fascinating unfiltered Pinot noir is its first striking feature. An almost dark orange hue glows in the background of the deep rose meets burgundy body. The unfiltered nature of the wine provides a cloudy element that when combined with these contrasting colors provides the same striking appearance of when dark, ominous storm clouds start to make way for a calming sunset.

Or, you can just say the wine looks like a perfectly balanced Kir apertif.

At just 11.5 % abv, this is far from a heavy, prodding Pinot noir that strives to be more of a Malbec or Cabernet sauvignon. This is far from rosé or fruit juice either. The tannins and oak are very present, making this an absolute lock for a salmon with blueberry sauce or lamb burger with harissa mayonnaise.

The year old wine bar in Copenhagen, Manfreds & Vin, recently poured this wine, one of many in its extensive and awe-inspiring French collection. I didn’t see a wine not from the old, often forgotten country that still knows how to make world class and exciting wines. The Les Larmes de Divona is more rugged than the typical Burgundy, but it shows that the classic regions such as Burgundy and Bordeaux may be dominated by heavy hitter heavy, luxurious wines, but there are young winemakers striking a new balance between elegance and innovation.

You can’t fairly call this wine a Pinot noir. It is entirely its own species, in a magnifique way. Then order from Manfreds excellent menu to enjoy with this wine. Or, just savor a few sips and enjoy dinner across the street at Manfreds’ big brother, Relae, where New Nordic cooking and even more excellent French wine awaits.

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