Trev's Bistro

Plat du Jour October 12, 2012: Pear Cocktail for the Weekend and Why Smørrebrød is the Ultimate Sandwich

As the heart of Autumn is now upon us: foliage season is ending, postseason baseball in full swing, chilly temperatures even in California; it’s prime time for apple cider and pears.

But, before Happy Hour commences on this mid October Friday, here’s one consideration to ponder that started in Scandinavia and has since started making waves in the U.S.

The sandwich of course began in England, at least according to food history folklore, when the Earl of Sandwich in the 18th century asked for the radical idea of his meat meal to be served between sliced bread. Incredible, a meal with bread as the utensil?

It is perhaps the same concept of being hurried and distracted that has kept the conventional sandwich in the same form, between two slices of bread (unless it’s a club sandwich). Why is this? Why is it that the only commonly seen open faced sandwich is for Thanksgiving leftovers with gravy splashed all over the turkey and the bread?

Well, there is another form of increasingly common open faced sandwiches. That would be the smørrebrød, as frequently eaten in Scandinavia for lunch as a regular ham and cheese on wheat sandwich is here in the U.S. Continue reading “Plat du Jour October 12, 2012: Pear Cocktail for the Weekend and Why Smørrebrød is the Ultimate Sandwich”

Beer of the Week: Southern Pacific Brewing Co.’s Deep Amber, San Francisco

San Francisco and the entire Bay Area have been having a frantic and belated craft brewing renaissance the past two years, long after the first wave swept through fellow west coast cities San Diego, Portland, and Seattle. Perhaps it was because the city cherishes beloved Anchor Brewing as the symbol of the city’s beer culture, and the brews (and wines) from north of the city are so impressive (Russian River Brewing, Lagunitas Brewing).

Now the city has Magnolia Brewing and 21st Amendment, both boasting terrific brewpubs with the brews. Speakeasy may actually have the most exciting portfolio of beers and now, a slew of start up breweries are the darlings of the city (Pacific Brewing Lab, Almanac). However, the newest brewer with a brewpub? That would be Southern Pacific, courtesy of brew master Andy French and named for the old railroad that used to run nearby on Harrison Street.Continue reading “Beer of the Week: Southern Pacific Brewing Co.’s Deep Amber, San Francisco”

Tuesday’s Project: Weeknight Sauce? Go for Pesto

Originating from the Liguria region of Italy along the humble, arching coastline between the glitzy French and Italian Rivieras, pesto is one of the world’s most treasured sauces.

It’s also one of the world’s most basic sauces.

The fresher, more fragrant the basil, and the more elegant, expressive the olive oil, the better your traditional pesto will be.Continue reading “Tuesday’s Project: Weeknight Sauce? Go for Pesto”

Plat du Jour October 10, 2012: Can a Restaurant Really Be Critiqued After One Visit?

Last week I was discussing with a husband and wife, restaurateur and chef team about the now dozens and dozens of outlets for the media and the public to review their restaurant. I, for one, never support trusting reviews where the merits and critiques of the restaurant are in the typical sparse, harsh “Yelp style:” “This sucked” or “The cake was better than sex.” Why did it that dish suck? How was the cake such an accomplishment?

It’s the fundamental lesson I remember from high school English class: “So, What?” Where is the evidence? What is the point of your argument?

Pepperoni Pizza with San Marzano Tomato, Wood Oven Roasted Onion, and Star Route Farms Wild Arugula at Napa’s Oenotri

The scary part of this story is just how much of an influence the brief reviews on Yelp (or Urbanspoon or Facebook “likes” or tweets or blogs with no responsibility or respect) have on the success of the people running restaurants. Even worse is how much of an influence the “stars” on Yelp actually have on the public. If we can’t trust Michelin stars or Zagat point ratings, how in the world can Yelp’s stars be trusted when the reviews often involve “yummy” as an adjective or a reviewer might not have enjoyed the chicken with prunes because he or she doesn’t like prunes. Well, I like prunes, so maybe I would like that dish?

O.K., enough sounding like the old curmudgeon who yearns for the old days when the waiter at the corner bistro knew your name and your favorite wine. Continue reading “Plat du Jour October 10, 2012: Can a Restaurant Really Be Critiqued After One Visit?”

Greetings from…San Antonio and Lockhart, Texas!

The final installment of “Greetings from…” heads deeper into the heart of Texas for some classic barbeque brisket in the Barbeque Capital of the State (which means by default possibly the Barbeque Capital of the World), along with a city that very soon will be on par with Austin, Dallas, and Houston when it comes to being a top tier dining destination.

Of course, when we think of San Antonio, we think of the Alamo and the Riverwalk. A visit to the Alamo is obligatory, as is the exceedingly touristy boat “tours” along the San Antonio River. How is this exactly a “tour?” It’s not as if the sights are really “sights.” Think of the Riverwalk a bit like a Disneyland meets modern Americana shopping mall with a hint of Texas cowboy and and a tablespoon of Bourbon Street debauchery thrown into the mix.

The mega restaurant corporation Landry’s (Bubba Gump, Chart House, Morton’s Steakhouse, McCormack & Schmick’s, Rainforest Cafe…) runs much of the Riverwalk. Unfortunately, many of San Antonio’s visitors are much more interested in the chain dining experience, rather than an actual dining experience. There is a Pat O’Brien’s, the New Orleans import, and home to quite possibly America’s most horrid cocktail. One food court near the dock for Riverwalk cruises nearly made me collapse from the aromas of sticky, greasy orange chicken.

While San Antonio is an enormous, sprawling city à la Houston, Dallas, and Los Angeles, the core of the city is actually very small and walkable. The dining scene doesn’t quite rank up with those cities yet, but it is already inching closer and closer. Remember, this city has the third and newest campus of the Culinary Institute of America. Interestingly, what did I leave remembering from San Antonio? Excellent cocktails, just not at Pat O’Brien’s.

And in Barbeque Central, also known as Lockhart, an hour’s drive from San Antonio (halfway between the city and Austin), it was a slightly disappointing dual between Black’s and Kreuz Market. In the end, Kreuz Market was crowned the victor.

Continue reading “Greetings from…San Antonio and Lockhart, Texas!”

Restaurants: Central Kitchen, San Francisco

There’s no need to compare Central Kitchen with its smash hit pasta and pizza centric older sibling a block away, Flour + Water.

The pair are owned by the same chef, Thomas McNaughton and his group ne timeas, and both have a razor sharp focus on the caliber of ingredients and preparations. That’s about it. They are two distinctly different restaurants with no intention of replicating the other’s recipe for success outside of the aforementioned similarity that are obligatory for any restaurant who merits impressive accolades.

A New Jersey native who moved west and decided that San Francisco’s fog (and sun those lucky few days in the city) was meant to be home. After years working in the high end kitchens of some of San Francisco’s well known chefs, including Gary Danko, Michael Tusk, and Roland Passot, McNaughton opened Flour + Water the summer of 2010 on a quiet corner on the outskirts of the not so quiet Mission District. After leaving my first dinner their shortly after its opening, there was no doubt in mind that at its price point, McNaughton was crafting the most rewarding dinners in the city. I hesitate to use the word “exciting” because that isn’t what Flour + Water is after. “Exciting” is for the pyrotechnics of El Bulli or the dare devil cuisine of the new guard of chefs that top horse meat with pork belly and ants.

In other words, restaurants are about eating and a good time in a comfortable environment. After several subsequent visits to Flour + Water, I still offer this stance in a city where there are hundreds and hundreds of worthy restaurants for your appetite and money. When considering all the factors and aspirations of the restaurant spectrum, Flour + Water is the best restaurant still in San Francisco. I say that because of the consistency and fulfillment of a meal there. That’s one opinion and of course everyone is absolutely entitled to their own opinion.

I’m not the only one who shares this adoration of Flour + Water if the nightly hour or more waits are any indication. And the awards and the press and the positive word of mouth…no pressure on McNaughton for the sequel.Continue reading “Restaurants: Central Kitchen, San Francisco”

Greetings from…Houston!

Houston, the problem is certainly getting solved. That problem would be how to create a marquee cultural city amidst the endless sprawl that is Houston, Texas.

Our fourth largest city in this country, Houston would never be mistaken for one of the four most impressive dining cities. That is not intended to be a slant at all against this excellent city for eating and drinking. Since cities such as San Francisco, New Orleans, and Portland, Oregon (and Maine for that matter) far exceed their modest population size with exceptional dining scenes, Houston faces stiff competition.

With some of the muggiest, sweltering weather around and then the almost daily afternoon thunderstorms, Houston doesn’t exactly have the climate that attracts tourists and screams to young professionals that this is the “it” city they need to re-locate to.

RDG’s Seared Scallops with Red Chile and Tortilla Hash

In many ways, Houston out Los Angeles’ Los Angeles. Both have the vast suburban regions that stretch for what seems to be hundreds of miles, complimented by the obligatory freeways. A drive from the Galleria east to Downtown covers really one city, but what seems to be ten cities, just like a drive from Santa Monica to Downtown. Both drives at the wrong time on the wrong day can be slower than if you just walked. Where are the subways when you need them?

Both face major immigration issues being near the Mexico border and both face challenging environmental issues with so much driving and such enormous populations. Los Angeles might have nearly double the population of Houston. Houston, however, covers more land than any other city in the list of the country’s ten most populated cities. A drive north to Dallas from Houston will show you just how vast the city is. It seemed to be at least an hour beyond George H.W. Bush International Airport when finally the suburban world became rural. The airport is almost an hour outside of Downtown to begin with.Continue reading “Greetings from…Houston!”

Wine of the Week: 2010 Durin Pigato, Liguria, Italy

It’s time to head back to Italy for this week’s notable wine. That means it’s time to learn about another new obscure grape that you probably have never heard of from a region you’ve heard the name of, but don’t know where in Italy it actually is located.

Liguria, of course best known as the home of pesto, is the thin, wrap around region of Northwestern Italy, sandwiched by the more glitzy French and Italian Rivieras. Genoa is Liguria’s primary town and Italy’s busiest seaport. Or you may know it as the home town of Christopher Columbus.

Durin-Pigato-dav-2-300x237 — Courtesy: http://www.siemawines.com/product-portfolio/italy/liguria/durin/

Liguria’s Ortovero Valley is also the home of the mostly unknown Pigato grape, a more lively, full bodied white, without the buttery textures of a Chardonnay. Pigato is most often compared with Sauvignon Blanc, yet it boasts almost none of the sweet fruit and wet stone that varietal is known for. Pigato is very floral and the fruit notes veer towards more mellow flavors such as mango and green melon.Continue reading “Wine of the Week: 2010 Durin Pigato, Liguria, Italy”

Greetings from…Austin!

Dallas and Houston are the enormous, Texas-sized metropolises. They’re both in the list for 10 most populated regions of the country. They get the headlines. They have the professional sports. They have major urban problems and major urban glamour.

Yet, neither is generally considered the food and drink capital of Texas. That would be the capital of the state of Texas – Austin.

It’s no secret that Austin is really an oasis of eclectic, vibrant culture in this cowboy, conservative state. Texas is too complex and immense to fully generalize into just those two traits. But, comparing Texas and Austin is very much a night and day, red and blue type of contrast. As one Austin resident told me during my stay, “It’s a blueberry in the middle of tomato soup.”

Austin certainly warrants its reputation for being quirky. From the bats under the Congress Street Bridge to the dynamic music scene to the much-loved population of food trailers (no, not carts or trucks, these are trailers), Austin is a unique city full of unique personalities. Yes, as they like to remind you, “Keep Austin weird.”Continue reading “Greetings from…Austin!”

Tuesday’s Project: Pane all’ Olive, Jim Lahey’s Olive Bread

Jim Lahey, the brilliant baker and founder of New York’s Sullivan Street Bakery and its sibling pizzeria Co., you would think would have a ridiculously complex recipe for his signature bread. Listening to some of the foremost boulangers in Paris and reading their recipes for baguettes, and hearing a master pizzaiolo from Naples talk about the care that goes into their crust’s preparation is enough to make you throw up your arms and concede to never attempt to bake again.

I’m not Eric Kayser or Chris Bianco, but maybe one day I could be. I don’t have a 200 year old brick oven for the baguettes and I’m not particularly interested in starting my own sourdough starter from scratch. I save the massaging in the kitchen for tense cuts of meat, not to soothe a rambunctious pastry dough for profiteroles.

Several Thanksgivings ago I searched for an olive loaf recipe, knowing that my family tends to look the other way at bread, but can’t stop eating anything with olives. For them, it’s about the olives and the olive oil for dipping. Who needs the bread?

Lahey’s recipe from his 2009 book My Bread stood out to me for its incredible simplicity. No sourdough starters. Just one overnight rise and smaller rise 12-18 hours later. No kneading! Just four, maybe five ingredients.

How is this possible?Continue reading “Tuesday’s Project: Pane all’ Olive, Jim Lahey’s Olive Bread”